Friday, October 15, 2010

Slow Coffee, a contradictio in terminis?

It seems a contradiction in terminis? How could coffee possibly be slow? Coffee has grown to be a symbol of a lifestyle in the fast lane. So when the quintessence of our fast living society becomes slow, is that a symbol of a whole society that is slowing down? One where the intimate and local creates a new sense of being and belonging?

Ever since I lived in Italy in the beginning of the nineties, have I sworn to espresso coffee. The Italian way. When I lived in London (also in the beginning of the nineties) I would go out of my way to find a decent cup of coffee. Later life got easier because the espresso hype caught up with me, and it seems espresso is now everywhere to be found; on my kitchen counter, in the kitchen of the office, and even when I visited Shanghai in 2008, there was an espresso bar at every corner. For a long time Star Bucks even had a cafe inside the Forbidden City in Beijing. It was closed in 2007. The world-master barrista of 2006 was Danish, Copenhagen and Stockholm has some of the finest coffee bars.

Coffee has gone through a number of loops of reinvention and upgrading since the beginning of the nineties. Much like in other gourmet categories like wine and cheese a whole army of connoisseurs, experts and barristas have popped out of nowhere, and have taught us about coffee; understanding the fine details leading to a perfect cup; how important freshly grind beans are, exactly which pressure is right, and about the importance of the origins, type and treatment of the beans. Starbucks even gives Coffee masterclasses in HongKong. Coffee is no longer confined to being the social lubricant @ home that it used to be, it is now a culinary experience best enjoyed in specialized coffee houses. Coffee is no longer a bitter drink for old folks, it's almost a cocktail, and Starbucks will make it any way you want it. Caffeine has gone from being evil, to being an excellent provider of anti-oxidants, which makes it almost healthy.

So now when espresso has finally established itself in the mindset of mr. Average, automatic espresso machines have penetrated into even the most provincial kitchens, then comes slow coffee and turns the world upside down. The new Slow Coffee is made with drip filters. Cup by cup. The freshly grind beans are given time to soak in boiling water, until all the fine essences are extracted, then it slowly drips into the cup. That brewing process becomes a slow ritual of waiting and contemplation. The cups are big like tea-mugs, which turns drinking into sipping and carefully tasting every mouthful, to discover all the layers of the flavors. 

Now when coffee has slowed down, will we all slow down?

The Village Coffee serving Slow Coffee @ opening Cris

The Village Coffee serving Slow Coffee @ opening Cris

The Village Coffee serving Slow Coffee @ opening Cris

The Village Coffee serving Slow Coffee @ opening Cris

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